What “longboard gear” means (and why it matters)

Longboard gear is everything that makes longboarding work: the board setup (deck, trucks, wheels, bearings, bushings), plus safety gear, plus a few tools and accessories that keep you rolling and not limping.

Why it matters: longboarding is basically physics + pavement. The right gear makes you:

• More stable (less sketchy wobble moments)
• More comfortable (less vibration, smoother ride)
• Safer (because the ground always wins)
• Better faster (gear that fits your style = easier progress)

If you’re new, here’s the truth: you don’t need “pro” parts. You need compatible parts and decent protection.

Quick-start longboard gear checklist

The non-negotiables (first ride essentials)

• A complete longboard (or a complete setup you build correctly)
• A helmet that fits (not “sort of fits”)
• Shoes with flat soles (skate shoes or anything similar)
• A skate tool (or the right wrenches/hex keys)

Strongly recommended (you’ll thank yourself later)

• Wrist protection (or slide gloves if you’re headed that way)
• Knee pads (especially if you’re learning braking, hills, or anything ambitious)
• Spare hardware (nuts/bolts are tiny and love disappearing)
• Basic bearing care (at least lube + a rag)

Discipline-specific add-ons (only if you ride that way)

• Slide gloves + pucks (freeride/downhill)
• Hip/tailbone protection (if you value sitting pain-free)
• More serious armor (downhill is not the place to “see what happens”)

The core longboard setup (what each part does)

A longboard isn’t one thing. It’s a system. Change one part and the whole board can feel different.

Deck (shape, flex, and mounting)

Your deck is the platform. It decides stance comfort, how high you stand, how stable it feels, and what tricks (if any) make sense.

Check in this article how to choose your deck

Deck types you’ll actually see

• Pintail: classic surfy shape, fun for mellow cruising. Not great for speed or slides.
• Drop-through: trucks mount through the deck, lower ride height, easier pushing, stable.
• Drop-down: the standing platform drops lower between the trucks. Even easier pushing.
• Double-drop: drop-through + drop-down. Ultra low, super comfy for commuting/cruising.
• Top-mount: trucks under the deck (no drop-through). More leverage, more responsive.
• Double-kick: kicks on both ends, better for freestyle/dance/tricks.
• Dancer decks: longer platform for footwork, often symmetrical with kicks.

Key specs that change everything

• Length/width: comfort + foot placement. Bigger isn’t automatically better.
• Wheelbase: distance between trucks. Longer = stable, shorter = agile.
• Concave: how the deck curves. Helps lock your feet in; too much can feel harsh.
• Flex vs stiffness: flex feels lively; stiff feels stable at speed.
• Cutouts/wheel wells: helps prevent wheelbite (wheels rubbing the deck mid-turn).

When deck choice matters most

• Commuting/pushing a lot: lower decks (drop/double-drop) save energy.
• Hills: stability matters; stiffer decks and appropriate trucks.
• Sliding: top-mount gives more leverage and control for many riders.
• Dancing: longer decks, space, kicks, and a flex you can actually use.

Trucks (turning, stability, and “feel”)

Trucks are the steering system. They’re a big deal.

RKP vs TKP in plain English

• RKP (Reverse Kingpin): most common for longboards. Smooth turning, stable at speed.
• TKP (Traditional Kingpin): more “snappy” street feel. Often used on cruisers/smaller setups.

If you’re buying your first true longboard setup, RKP is usually the safe default.

Baseplate angle, width, and ride height

• Baseplate angle: higher angles turn more; lower angles feel more stable.
• Width: generally match truck width to your deck width for predictable control.
• Ride height: affects stability and wheelbite risk. Lower isn’t always better—but it’s often more comfy for beginners.

Wheels (comfort, grip, speed, and slide)

If your deck is the stage and trucks are the steering, wheels are your contact with reality.

Wheel size (mm): speed vs acceleration vs rollover

• Bigger wheels: roll over cracks better, keep speed longer, smoother ride.
• Smaller wheels: accelerate faster, feel lighter, slide easier, but get stuck more easily.

For most beginners cruising streets: larger is friendlier.

Durometer (A): grip vs slide vs vibration

• Softer wheels: more grip, smoother ride, less vibration.
• Harder wheels: easier to slide, more feedback, rougher ride on bad pavement.

For typical cruising: softer is your friend.

Shape and lips (contact patch = control)

• Sharp lips + wide contact patch: more grip and stability.
• Rounded/beveled lips: easier to slide and release.

If you’re not sliding yet, prioritize predictable grip.

Bearings (mostly boring… until they aren’t)

Bearings let wheels spin. The internet will try to sell you “ceramic space bearings” that promise teleportation.

Lear how to clean your bearings here

Here’s what actually matters:

• Quality manufacturing
• Good seals
• Proper lubrication
• Not riding through puddles like it’s a lifestyle choice

ABEC myths and what to look for instead

ABEC ratings are about tolerances in industrial contexts, not “how fast your longboard goes in real life.”
Focus on bearings that are durable, sealed well, and easy to maintain.

Bushings (the cheapest upgrade with the biggest impact)

Bushings sit inside the trucks and control how your board turns.

If your longboard feels:

• Too twitchy: bushings may be too soft (or trucks too loose)
• Too stiff and dead: bushings may be too hard (or trucks too tight)

Durometer by rider weight and style

A simple way to think about it:

• lighter riders = softer bushings
• heavier riders = harder bushings
• speed/hills = a bit harder
• carving = a bit softer

Shapes: cone vs barrel vs specialty

• Cone: turns more easily (carvy)
• Barrel: more stable (supportive)
• Mixing cone/barrel: a common balance

Hardware, risers, and shock pads

• Hardware: bolts and nuts that hold trucks to the deck. Get the right length.
• Risers: space between deck and truck to reduce wheelbite.
• Shock pads: reduce vibration a bit and can help protect the deck.

If you want bigger wheels but your board wheelbites, risers can save your day.

Griptape and traction

Grip is what keeps your feet from becoming surprise passengers.

• Aggressive grip: great control, can chew shoes/clothes.
• Mellow grip: comfy for dancing/commuting, less “locked in.”

A small but useful tool: grip gum (grip cleaner) for dusty grip tape.

Safety gear (the goal is to skate tomorrow too)

Longboarding is fun. Injuries are not “part of the aesthetic.”

Helmet (how to choose one that actually protects)

Your helmet should:

• Fit snugly without pain
• Sit level (not tilted back like a fashion accessory)
• Not move when you shake your head

If it wobbles, it’s not “almost right.” It’s wrong.

Pads that matter most (ranked by usefulness)

For most beginners:

1. Helmet
2. Wrist guards (or slide gloves later)
3. Knee pads
4. Elbow pads

Slide gloves and pucks (for freeride/downhill)

If you’re learning slides or riding faster:

• Slide gloves help you put a hand down safely
• Replaceable pucks matter (you will grind them)

Shoes and clothing that help (without going full astronaut)

• Flat soles help board feel and control
• Thicker fabrics reduce road rash
• Hip/tailbone pads are underrated (your future self will agree)

Visibility and conditions gear (commuting/night/rain)

• Lights/reflective gear for night commuting
• Wet pavement is not “hard mode,” it’s “injury mode”
• If it’s slick, keep it mellow or don’t ride

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Tools & accessories that make longboarding easier

Must-have tools

• Skate tool (tighten trucks, swap wheels, adjust kingpin)
• Hex key if your hardware uses it
• Spare nuts/bolts (because they vanish)

Maintenance helpers (nice to have)

• Bearing lube/cleaner
• Rag/brush
• Threadlocker (only if you know why you’re using it)

Quality-of-life accessories

• Carry strap (if you walk with your board)
• Small first-aid kit (tiny, but heroic)
• Water bottle (dehydration is not a sport)

Choose your gear by riding style (match intent to setup)

This is where most “longboard gear” articles fail: they list parts without tying them to why you ride.

Cruising & commuting (beginner default)

Goal: smooth, stable, easy pushing.

• Deck: drop-through/drop-down/double-drop
• Wheels: larger + softer for rough pavement
• Trucks: stable RKP
• Safety: helmet + wrists + knees

Carving (surf-y turns, speed control)

Goal: responsive turns, flow.

• Deck: comfortable platform, not too high
• Trucks/bushings: tuned for turn
• Wheels: grippy, predictable

Dancing (footwork and space)

Goal: room to move, stable platform.

• Deck: dancer shape, longer, often double-kick
• Wheels: not too huge (avoid tripping mid-step)
• Grip: mellow enough for footwork

Freeride / sliding (control + predictable release)

Goal: controlled slides, confidence.

• Slide gloves are non-negotiable
• Wheels: slide-friendly shape/duro
• Deck: many riders prefer top-mount for leverage

Downhill (don’t “accidentally” build this)

Goal: stability at speed.

• Stiff deck, stable geometry
• Serious protection
• Skill progression matters more than gear here

Fit & sizing (make the board work with your body)

Deck length/width vs stance and shoe size

You want enough space to stand comfortably, reposition your feet, and not feel cramped.

Wheelbase: stability vs agility

• Longer wheelbase = calmer and steadier
• Shorter wheelbase = quicker turning, but more sensitive

Bushings by rider weight (quick starting point)

If your trucks feel like:

• Shopping cart wheels: likely too loose/soft
• A brick: likely too tight/hard

Tune bushings and truck tightness like you’re dialing in a guitar—small changes matter.

Buy a complete or build your own?

When a complete longboard is the smart move

If you’re new, a good complete setup:

• Avoids compatibility problems
• Is cheaper than buying parts randomly
• Gets you riding faster

When building/customizing makes sense

Build if you:

• Know your riding style
• Want a specific feel
• Enjoy tuning and upgrading

Budget tiers (what changes as you spend more)

More money usually buys:

• Better materials and durability
• Better ride feel (especially wheels/trucks)
• Better quality control

It doesn’t buy instant skill. Sadly.

Buying used (how to avoid getting cooked)

Check:

• Cracks/delamination in deck
• Bent trucks or damaged hangers
• Wheels chunked or badly coned
• Bearings rusted

Used boards can be an amazing deal—if you inspect properly.

Setup & tuning basics (get it riding right)

Tighten/loosen trucks the right way

Start slightly tighter for stability, then loosen gradually as you improve.

If you crank trucks super tight, you’re often masking:

• Poor stance
• Panic turning
• Unbalanced weight

Prevent wheelbite

Wheelbite = wheels hit the deck on a hard turn and you stop instantly.
How to prevent it:

• Use wheels that fit your deck
• Add risers
• Use decks with cutouts/wells
• Don’t carve like a maniac on day one

Break-in expectations

• Bushings break in
• Bearings loosen up a little
• You get better (the biggest “break-in” of all)

Maintenance (small habits, big performance)

Bearings: clean, lube, replace (not obsess)

Clean when:

• They sound gritty
• They don’t roll smoothly
• You rode wet/dirty terrain

Wheels: rotate, watch for wear

Rotate wheels to reduce coning and extend life.

Hardware and trucks: safety checks

Every so often:

• Check axle nuts
• Check kingpin nut
• Look at bushings for cracks
• Make sure nothing is loosening itself into chaos

Common mistakes (and how to avoid them)

Buying a downhill-style setup as a first board

You’ll make learning harder and riskier. Start stable and friendly.

Ignoring helmet fit (or buying the wrong type)

If it moves, it’s not doing its job. Period.

Overtightening trucks instead of learning balance

Tight trucks feel “safe” until you need to turn quickly.

Mismatching wheels to terrain

Hard wheels on rough streets = rattly mess.
Huge wheels without clearance = wheelbite city.

Falling for bearing marketing

Buy decent bearings and take care of them. That beats “premium” bearings abused in the rain.

Beginner tips (get confident fast, without doing anything heroic)

Where to practice first (terrain matters)

Pick:

• Flat
• Smooth
• Low traffic
• Plenty of space

Hills can wait. Your knees will not miss them.

Stance, pushing, and turning cues that actually help

• Bend knees slightly (locked knees = wobbles)
• Look where you want to go
• Keep weight centered and calm

How to slow down safely before you learn slides

Learn foot braking early. It’s boring. It’s also the skill that keeps you riding longer.

What to upgrade first (if you’re improving)

Most impactful upgrades:

1. Bushings (tuned to you)
2. Wheels (tuned to your pavement/style)
3. Then trucks/deck if you’ve outgrown your setup

Recommended longboard gear (short, intent-matched picks)

Not a shopping list. Just the smartest “category upgrades.”

Best “first upgrades” for most riders

• Bushings that match your weight
• Wheels that match your streets (bigger/softer if rough)
• A helmet you actually like wearing

Best safety upgrades for hills or faster riding

• Slide gloves with replaceable pucks
• Knee pads that stay in place
• Optional hip/tailbone protection

Best maintenance buys that cost little

• Skate tool
• Bearing lube
• Grip gum
• Spare hardware

FAQ

What gear do I need to start longboarding?

A complete board, a helmet, flat-soled shoes, and a skate tool. Add wrist + knee protection if you want to learn faster with fewer setbacks.

Is a longboard helmet different from a bike helmet?

Often, yes. Many skate-style helmets cover more of the back of the head and are designed for multiple smaller impacts. The key is proper certification and fit.

What’s the best wheel size for cruising rough streets?

Generally, bigger wheels roll smoother over cracks and rough pavement. Pair that with a softer durometer for comfort and grip.

What durometer wheels should beginners get?

Most beginners do best with softer wheels for grip and comfort—especially on typical streets and sidewalks.

RKP vs TKP trucks: which should I choose?

RKP is the usual longboard choice for smooth turning and better stability at speed. TKP can be great for smaller cruiser-style setups.

How tight should my trucks be?

Tight enough that you feel stable, loose enough that you can turn without fighting the board. Adjust in small steps and test.

How do I stop speed wobbles?

Slow down, widen your stance slightly, keep knees bent, and avoid sudden turns. Setup matters too—stability-focused tuning helps.

Are expensive bearings worth it?

Sometimes, for durability and better seals. But maintenance and riding conditions matter more than price.

Should I buy a complete longboard or build one?

If you’re new, buy a quality complete. Build later when you know your style and what you want to change.

How often should I clean my bearings?

Whenever they feel gritty, get loud, or after wet/dirty rides. If you only ride clean, dry pavement, you can go much longer.