Longboard Wheels: The Ultimate Guide for Riders

Everyone obsesses over the deck. Big, flashy, cool grip tape… sure, it looks great. But let’s be honest: the deck is just the stage. The longboard wheels? They’re the ones running the show.

Think about it—your longboard wheels decide everything. Want a buttery-smooth cruise through the city? That’s wheels. Want to feel like you’re riding a jackhammer because you chose wrong? Yep, also wheels. They’re the reason you grip hard on a downhill corner instead of flying into a ditch—or why you can slide out smooth instead of eating asphalt.

Bottom line: longboard wheels can either make you love your session or hate every second of it.

And hey, don’t worry if right now all you can say about wheels is “they’re round and spin.” That’s fine. By the time you finish this, you’ll know why size, shape, durometer (that’s hardness, fancy word), and even where the core sits change your entire ride. More importantly, you’ll know which longboard wheels actually fit your style—whether you’re just cruising to class, bombing hills, or trying to dance on your board without looking like a confused flamingo.

So… ready to finally ride like you mean it?

What are longboard wheels?

They’re those big, fat, colorful circles under your board that keep the whole thing moving. Polyurethane, if you want to sound smart (basically a fancy kind of plastic). But forget the science class vibe—just think of them as the shoes of your longboard. You can swap the deck, the trucks, the grip tape… but if your longboard wheels suck, the ride sucks. Simple as that.

Now, here’s the difference most people miss:

• Skateboard wheels → tiny, rock-hard, perfect for tricks and skateparks. Try cruising long distance with them and you’ll rattle your teeth out.
• Longboard wheels → bigger, softer, smoother. They don’t freak out when they see a pebble. They’re made for cruising, carving, sliding, bombing hills… basically for actually enjoying the ride instead of fighting with the asphalt.

Why does this matter? Because longboard wheels are the only part of your board that actually touches the ground. They decide if your carve grips or slips, if high speed feels like freedom or like death, and whether every push feels like flying… or like dragging a shopping cart with a busted wheel.

Pick the wrong wheels and you’ll hate your setup. Pick the right ones and suddenly you’ll wonder why you didn’t start riding sooner. That’s the magic.

Longboard Wheel Anatomy: The Stuff That Actually Matters

Let’s keep it real: longboard wheels aren’t just circles of urethane rolling under your feet. Every detail—size, shape, hardness—changes how your board feels. And if you pick the wrong ones, you’ll either be flying or eating asphalt. So, here’s the breakdown…

Wheel Diameter (size in mm)

• Small wheels (60–66mm): Fast to get moving, easy to push, and perfect for sliding. Fun for quick rides… but they bleed speed fast.
• Mid wheels (67–72mm): The sweet spot. Balanced speed, grip, and control. If you don’t know what you’re doing—get these.
• Big wheels (73mm+): Made for speed junkies. They crush cracks, stones, and crappy roads. If downhill or long cruises are your thing—this is it.

Contact Patch (the part actually touching the ground)

• Narrow: Less grip, quicker slides, faster acceleration. Translation: sketchy but fun.
• Wide: More grip, smoother rides, safer at high speeds. They also last longer.

Wheel Edges & Lips

• Square lips: Pure grip. Stick to the road like glue. Best for downhill.
• Rounded/radiused: Slide like butter, easy and predictable.
• Beveled: A mix of both worlds—some grip, some slide.

Durometer (hardness)

• Soft (75a–80a): Cushy, smooth, and forgiving. Cruise all day.
• Medium (81a–84a): Balanced. You can grip when you want, slide when you need.
• Hard (85a+): Fast, slippery, and made for big slides. Rough roads? Forget it.

Core Placement & Size

• Centerset: Dead in the middle. Wear evenly, last longer, and you can flip them. Practical.
• Offset: Slightly off-center. Best mix of grip and slide. A favorite for freeride and downhill.
• Sideset: Hugging the inside edge. Easy to slide, no mercy on grip.
• Large cores: Faster roll, lighter weight, but less urethane = shorter life.
• Small cores: More urethane, smoother, last longer—but heavier.

At the end of the day, it’s all about what you want. Bombing hills? Carving mellow slopes? Dancing on your deck? Your longboard wheels decide if you’ll glide or cry. Pick smart.

Types of Longboard Wheels (and Why You Should Care)

Here’s the truth: not all longboard wheels are the same. You don’t grab “whatever looks cool” and expect your board to ride like magic. The right wheels depend on how—and where—you ride. Let’s break it down so you don’t waste your money (or faceplant for no reason).

Cruising & Commuting Wheels

If your board is basically your daily Uber—school, work, beach runs—you need comfort. Smooth, forgiving longboard wheels that don’t make every crack feel like a personal attack.

• Soft durometer (75a–80a) → eats pebbles for breakfast.
• Mid-to-large (65–75mm) → keeps rolling without extra leg day.
• Rounded lips → flowy, no sudden grip surprises.

Think of them as SUV tires: not sexy, but comfy, stable, and always there for you.

Freeride & Sliding Wheels

For the rider who can’t resist sliding just because there’s pavement. You want wheels that let you break traction without a wrestling match.

• Medium size (65–70mm).
• Harder durometer (82a–86a) → easier to kick out.
• Rounded edges → predictable slides.

Perfect for stand-up slides, long drifts, or just showing off that you’re not afraid of road rash.

Downhill & Speed Wheels

This is where things get serious. If your idea of fun is bombing a hill at 70 km/h, don’t even think about cheap longboard wheels.

• Large (70–75mm+).
• Square lips → grip like claws in corners.
• Wide contact patch + offset core → planted at high speed.

These wheels are your life insurance. They don’t just roll—they keep you alive when gravity’s trying to kill you.

Carving Wheels

Carving is basically surfing on asphalt. If that’s your vibe, you need grip that holds but still lets you flow.

• Softer durometer (75a–80a).
• Beveled or square lips → grip through deep turns.
• Mid-size (65–70mm) → quick and smooth.

Every turn feels like you just caught a wave—without the salt water in your nose.

Dancing & Tricks Wheels

Cross-steps, spins, boardwalking… if you want to make your longboard look like a stage, go lighter.

• Small-to-mid size (60–66mm).
• Rounded edges → easy transitions.
• Lightweight formulas → less drag, more play.

These wheels make your board feel nimble, like it actually wants to dance with you.

Slalom Wheels

Weaving cones or just carving like your life depends on it? Slalom longboard wheels are built for quick, explosive moves.

• Small (60–65mm).
• Super grippy urethane → locks into turns.
• Narrow profile → lightning-fast edge changes.

They’re the racing tires of longboarding—pure precision.

👉 Bottom line: wheels completely change how your board feels. That’s why seasoned riders don’t have “a set of longboard wheels.” They have a stash. Different wheels for different moods. Because once you try the right setup… you’ll never go back.

Materials & Technology

Most longboard wheels are made of polyurethane… but here’s the truth: not all urethane is the same. Every brand has its “secret sauce,” and you can feel the difference the moment you roll.

Polyurethane Formulas

High rebound urethane: this stuff kicks energy back at you every time the wheel spins. Translation? Faster take-offs, smoother cruising, extra grip when carving or bombing hills. Wheels that actually feel alive under your feet.

Low rebound urethane: slower, spongier, absorbs more vibration. Some riders love it for sliding because it doesn’t cling to the pavement as much. For beginners though? It usually just feels like skating through mud.

Now, about those colorful streaks you’ve seen after a slide… thane lines. Basically, your longboard wheels leaving behind little “signatures” of urethane on the pavement. Freeriders love them—it’s like proof the slide was smooth and buttery. They don’t mess with performance (unless you’re chewing through wheels too fast), but they sure look badass.

Stoneground vs Race Finish

And then there’s stoneground vs race finish wheels. This one’s simple:

• Stoneground: Wheels are pre-sanded, ready to slide out of the box. No awkward break-in phase. Ideal if you’re just starting out or want predictable, easy slides.
• Race finish: Shiny, untouched surface straight from the mold. These grip like crazy once broken in, and that’s why downhill junkies swear by them. Not beginner-friendly, but perfect if you want every ounce of traction flying at top speed.

👉 Bottom line: stoneground = fun and easy. Race finish = maximum grip for people who like scaring themselves going downhill.

So yeah… wheels aren’t “just wheels.” Pick the wrong formula, and you’ll feel it with every push.

Performance Factors

When we talk about longboard wheels, forget about the pretty colors or the cool graphics. What really matters is how they perform every time you push, carve, or slide. Three things run the show: grip vs slide, acceleration vs top speed, and weight & momentum.

Grip vs Slide: What do you want, control or chaos?

Think of your wheels like shoes. Sneakers grip the pavement, dress shoes slip on the dance floor. Same deal here.

• More grip (softer wheels, square edges, wide contact patch):
  Perfect for bombing hills or carving deep. They stick to the road, keep you locked in, and give you confidence at speed. Downside? Sliding them out feels like wrestling a bear.
• More slide (harder wheels, rounded edges, smaller contact patch):
  These love drifting and freeride. Kick them out into a slide and it feels natural, almost too easy. The catch? High-speed grip isn’t their strong suit.

So… what’s your poison? Downhill junkies usually chase grip. Freeriders want that loose, playful slide.

Acceleration vs Top Speed: Wheels are your gears.

Wheel size decides how you start and how far you go.

• Smaller longboard wheels (60–66mm):
  Fast off the line. Perfect for city riding where you’re pushing every block. But don’t expect to hit wild speeds—they top out quick.
• Bigger longboard wheels (70mm+):
  They start slow, like trying to sprint in sand, but once they’re rolling… good luck stopping them. They cruise forever and eat downhill runs for breakfast.

Think of it like a car: smaller wheels = quick starts, slower max speed. Bigger wheels = slow start, but they’ll keep charging.

Weight & Momentum: Do you want nimble or unstoppable?

The heavier the wheel, the harder it is to get moving—but the longer it’ll carry you once it’s rolling.

• Lighter wheels:
  Quick to accelerate, easy for tricks, dancing, or messing around. But they die out fast—momentum isn’t their game.
• Heavier wheels:
  They take muscle to push, but once you’re moving, they feel like a freight train. Super stable, ideal for downhill, but forget about flicking them around for freestyle.

Bottom line: if you crave flow and stability, go heavy. If you want agility and fun, go light.

Common Problems With Longboard Wheels (And How to Fix Them)

Longboard wheels aren’t immortal. They’re like sneakers—you ride them, you mess up a little, and eventually they start acting weird. The trick is knowing what’s normal wear and what’s about to ruin your session. Let’s break it down…

Wheelbite

What happens:
Your deck kisses your longboard wheels mid-turn, your board stops, and you don’t—usually ending with you kissing the pavement instead.

Why it happens:

• Wheels too big for your setup
• Bushings too soft (you carve deep, the wheels don’t forgive)
• Deck without wheel wells

Why it sucks:

Because flying off at 40 km/h is only fun in action movies.

Fix it:

• Add risers between trucks and deck (a little lift = no more bite)
• Downsize your wheels if your board rides too low
• Get a deck with wheel wells—or grab some sandpaper and DIY if you’re brave

Flatspots, Coning & Egging

What they are:

• Flatspots: wheels get flat patches from sloppy slides. Feels like riding over Lego every roll.
• Coning: one side of the wheel wears thinner—hello, lopsided grip.
• Egging: the oval-shaped disaster that comes from lazy rotations or bad slides.

How to avoid it:

• Rotate your wheels often (front to back, left to right—it’s wheel musical chairs)
• Don’t slide forever on the same side (your wheels hate that)
• Learn smooth slides—jerky moves shred urethane fast
• If sliding’s your thing, get wheels made for it (cheap ones die quick)

Worn-Out Lips

What happens:

The edges of your wheels slowly round out.

Why it matters:

• Square lips = tons of grip (downhill warriors love this)
• Rounded lips = easier slides, but you lose control

When your lips are gone, so is the traction. That might be fun for freeride… but terrifying if you’re bombing hills.

Fix it:

• Need grip? Buy new wheels.
• Love sliding? Congrats—you just unlocked freeride wheels without paying a cent.

👉 Wheels don’t just “die.” They evolve. The question is: are they evolving into your style… or into something that’s about to throw you on the asphalt?

How to Pick the Right Longboard Wheels (Without Losing Your Mind)

Look, there’s no “perfect” wheel for everyone. It depends on what you want to do with your board, where you ride, and yeah… how much cash you’re willing to drop. Let’s keep it simple:

1. Riding Style

• Cruising/Commuting → Soft, mid-size wheels (65–70 mm, 78a–80a). Smooth, comfy, they eat cracks for breakfast.
• Freeride/Sliding → Same size range, but harder (82a+), rounded edges so you can kick out slides without drama.
• Downhill/Speed → Big boys (72–76 mm), square lips, wide contact patch. Translation: grip and control when things get fast.
• Carving → Softer (around 78a), mid-size with grippy lips for those surfy turns.
• Dancing/Tricks → Small (60–65 mm), lightweight, rounded. Easier for spins, steps, and not tripping over your own board.

2. Terrain

• Rough pavement → Bigger + softer = no more fighting every crack.
• Smooth asphalt → Harder wheels are fine, especially if you love sliding.
• Hills → Get downhill wheels with real grip and strong cores.
• City cruising → Softer mid-size wheels to roll over curbs and random bumps.

3. Board Setup

• Top-mount → Wheels under the deck = risk of wheelbite. Stick to smaller wheels (or slap on some risers).
• Drop-through / drop-deck → Lower ride, safer from wheelbite. Go bigger if you want.
• Wheel wells/cutouts → Congrats, you can run big wheels without worrying.

4. Budget (aka how much you actually care)

• Premium brands (Orangatang, Blood Orange, Seismic) → Top formulas, consistent performance, last longer.
• Mid-range (Sector 9, Hawgs, Omen) → Good balance. Reliable without draining your wallet.
• Budget wheels → Totally fine for beginners, but they wear faster and slides feel… well, cheap.

Quick Pick Guide (a.k.a. no-brainer chart)

If you ride…	Wheels you want	Example wheels
Cruising / commuting	65–70 mm, soft (78a–80a), rounded	Sector 9 Butterballs, Orangatang Stimulus
Freeride / sliding	65–70 mm, harder (82a–86a), stoneground	Blood Orange Liam Morgan, Cult Chronicle
Downhill / racing	72–76 mm, square lips, wide patch	Orangatang Kegel, Seismic Speed Vent
Carving	Mid-size, 78a, grippy lips	Hawgs Fatty, Orangatang 4President
Dancing / tricks	60–65 mm, medium hardness, rounded	Orangatang Fat Free, Powell Snakes
Mixed city terrain	70 mm, 78a–80a all-rounders	Cloud Ride Cruiser, Sector 9 Nineballs

👉 Pro tip: If you’re lost, don’t overthink it. Just grab a 70 mm, 78a cruising wheel. They’re smooth, versatile, and perfect to get started. Later you can go down the rabbit hole of specialized wheels—if you really want to.

Best Longboard Wheels in 2025 (Without the Overthinking)

Picking wheels shouldn’t feel like a college exam. You don’t need a PhD in urethane — you just need wheels that match how you actually ride. So, let’s cut through the nonsense and go straight to the good stuff.

For Cruising & Commuting

🟠 Orangatang Caguama (85mm, 77a)
Big, soft, and smooth as butter. These things roll over cracks like they’re not even there.

• Pros: Massive diameter = effortless pushing, super comfy, last forever, flashy colors.
• Cons: Heavy (forget about tricks), and they cost a small fortune.

🌊 Sector 9 Nineballs (70mm, 78a)
The old reliable. Beginner-friendly and easy on the wallet.

• Pros: Cheap, smooth ride, great for casual cruising.
• Cons: Not much grip, chunks if you push them into slides too hard.

For Freeride & Sliding

🔵 Blood Orange Liam Morgan Pro (70mm, 82a)
The “butter wheels.” If sliding is your thing, these are like training wheels for style.

• Pros: Easy slides, no break-in needed, sick thane lines.
• Cons: Wear out fast, shaky at top speed.

🟣 Cult Classics (70mm, 80a)
These wheels basically wrote the book on freeride.

• Pros: Predictable, super smooth, lightweight.
• Cons: Forget cruising or downhill — they’re slide machines, nothing else.

For Downhill & Speed

🟡 Orangatang Kegel (80mm, 80a/83a)
Want to bomb a hill like you actually enjoy life-risking decisions? These are it.

• Pros: Massive grip, giant core for stability, insane speed.
• Cons: Too stiff for mellow rides, expensive.

🔥 Hawgs Biggie Hawgs (73mm, 76a/78a)
Canada’s answer to “How much grip do you really need?”

• Pros: Wide contact patch = glue on asphalt, durable, smooth.
• Cons: Heavy as hell, take time to break in.

For Dancing & Tricks

🟢 Orangatang Fat Free (65mm, 83a)
Light, playful, and perfect if you spend more time spinning than rolling.

• Pros: Easy to flick around, forgiving slides, ideal for freestyle.
• Cons: Not stable for speed, wear down faster than you’d like.

⚡ Blood Orange Jammerz (66mm, 82a)
The party wheels. Fun, bouncy, and built for flowy tricks.

• Pros: Lightweight, easy to kick out slides, nice rebound.
• Cons: Small size = rough roads will eat you alive, less grip.

Quick Comparison

Riding Style	Top Pick	Size	Durometer	Pros	Cons
Cruising	Orangatang Caguama	85mm	77a	Smooth, comfy, durable	Heavy, pricey
Cruising	Sector 9 Nineballs	70mm	78a	Affordable, beginner-friendly	Not grippy
Freeride	Blood Orange Liam Morgan	70mm	82a	Predictable slides, stoneground	Wears fast
Freeride	Cult Classics	70mm	80a	Legendary slides, lightweight	Limited grip
Downhill	Orangatang Kegel	80mm	80a–83a	Monster grip, speed	Expensive
Downhill	Hawgs Biggie Hawgs	73mm	76a–78a	Durable, wide patch	Heavy
Dancing	Orangatang Fat Free	65mm	83a	Agile, light, playful	Not for speed
Dancing	Blood Orange Jammerz	66mm	82a	Fun, good rebound	Struggles on rough terrain

👉 Bottom line: pick based on how you ride, not how fancy the marketing sounds. These wheels are the ones worth your money in 2025. Everything else? Just background noise.

Tips to Make Your Wheels Last Longer

Want your longboard wheels to last longer? Easy—treat them right. It’s not about being some obsessive gear freak, it’s just common sense: good wheels = smoother rides, less money wasted, and way more fun. Here’s how to keep them alive:

Rotate your wheels

They don’t all wear out the same. Front vs. back, left vs. right—it’s uneven. If you don’t swap them around, you’ll end up with a lopsided ride that feels like skating on a potato. Rotate them every so often, and boom: balance, control, and longer life.

Take care of your bearings

Dirty bearings are silent killers. Dust, grit, whatever—it all builds up and makes them spin like garbage. That stress transfers to the wheels and wears them down faster. Clean them once in a while, add a drop of lube, and suddenly your wheels and bearings both last longer. (Plus, your board just feels way smoother.)

Don’t kill them with flatspots

Sliding is fun… until you lock the wheels in one spot and burn a flat edge. Then it’s game over: every ride feels wobbly, noisy, and just wrong. The fix? Learn controlled slides, don’t slam the brakes, and mix up your style so wear spreads evenly.

Store your board like you care about it

Throwing your board in a hot garage or leaving it in the sun? Congrats—you’re basically cooking your wheels. Heat, moisture, direct sunlight… all enemies of urethane. Keep it somewhere cool and dry, and if you’re not riding for a while, don’t leave it sitting with all the weight on one spot.

Take care of your wheels, and they’ll take care of you. Ignore them, and, well… enjoy buying new ones way sooner than you planned.

Longboard Wheels: FAQs (the stuff you actually need to know)

What size wheels are best for beginners?

Go with 65–70mm. That’s the sweet spot. Big enough to roll over cracks and pebbles without eating pavement, but not so massive that you need risers the size of Lego blocks to avoid wheelbite. Smaller than that? You’ll accelerate fast, but the ride gets twitchy. Bigger than 72mm? Save that for later, once you know what you’re doing. Mid-size = fewer wipeouts and faster learning.

Can I use skateboard wheels on a longboard?

Technically yes… but why would you want to? Skateboard wheels are tiny (50–55mm), rock-hard (99a or more), and make every crack in the road feel like an earthquake. Great for tricks in a park, terrible for cruising, freeride, or downhill. Longboard wheels are built for what you actually want: smooth rides, grip, and control.

How often should I replace longboard wheels?

Depends on how much you shred. Cruise casually? They’ll last 6 months to a year easy. Sliding, downhill, bombing hills every weekend? You’ll chew through them much faster. Time for a swap if you notice:

• Flatspots (that annoying thump-thump with every roll)
• Coned shape (one side worn down way more than the other)
• Cracks or chunks missing
  If your board feels sketchy and it’s not the bearings… it’s the wheels.

Do softer wheels always mean slower rides?

Nope. Softer wheels (75a–80a) grip better and soak up bumps, and on rough pavement they can actually be faster than harder ones — because they don’t waste energy bouncing around. Hard wheels (85a+) feel quicker on smooth concrete but will rattle your teeth out on rough streets. Think of it like car tires: soft = comfort + grip, hard = pure speed (but only on perfect roads).

What’s the difference between freeride and downhill wheels?

Freeride wheels are your “let’s have fun” option. Medium size, medium-hard, rounded edges, sometimes pre-worn (stoneground) so you can slide easy without fighting the asphalt.
Downhill wheels? That’s the serious stuff. Big, soft, square-lipped, with fat contact patches — all designed to glue you to the road at 70 km/h.
In short: freeride = playful sliding. Downhill = pure speed and control.

Let’s be real: your wheels aren’t just some random chunks of plastic rolling under your board… they’re the whole damn foundation of your ride. The right ones? You glide smoother, carve tighter, and bomb hills without that little voice in your head screaming “you’re gonna eat it.” The wrong ones? Every crack feels like a pothole, every slide is a gamble, and you end up fighting the board instead of enjoying it.

So, do yourself a favor: choose smart, rotate them now and then, and don’t trash them. Take care of your wheels and they’ll take care of you—with rides that actually feel good instead of survival missions.

👉 Want to push your setup even further? Dive into the guides on Longboard Bible and pick up everything you need to ride better, safer, and—let’s be honest—way more fun.