Longboard Double-dropl: The Complete Double Drop Guide (What It Is, Best Uses, Setups, Mistakes)

If you searched “Longboard Double-drop”, you’re almost certainly looking for what most riders call a double drop longboard.

That “double-drop” spelling shows up a lot (autocorrect loves sabotaging us), but the concept is simple:

A double drop deck is extra low to the ground because it combines two “drops” in the design:

Drop-through mounting (the trucks mount through the deck)
A dropped standing platform (your feet stand lower than the mounting points)

Result: a board that feels stable, comfy to push, and very forgiving—especially when you’re learning.

Let’s break it down properly so you can choose the right one and set it up without accidentally building a sidewalk-plow.

What is a Double Drop Longboard?

A double drop longboard is a deck design that lowers your stance in two ways:

Drop-through: the baseplate sits on top of the deck, and the hanger/axle sit underneath through a cutout.
Drop deck / drop-down platform: the part where you stand is lower than the truck mounts.

Why that matters (in real-life terms)

Being lower to the ground changes everything:

Easier pushing: your pushing foot doesn’t have to travel as far to reach the pavement.
More stability: your center of gravity is lower, so the board feels less twitchy.
Less fatigue: especially on commutes or longer rides.

If normal boards feel like you’re standing on a table, double drops feel like you’re standing on the floor.

Double Drop vs Drop-Through vs Drop-Down vs Topmount

This is where people get confused, so here’s the clean version:

Double Drop vs Drop-through

Drop-through: lower than a topmount, good for cruising.
Double drop: even lower, usually more comfortable for pushing and distance.

Double Drop vs Drop-down (drop deck)

Drop-down deck: platform drops, but trucks might still top-mount or drop-through depending on the deck.
Double drop: explicitly combines drop-through + dropped platform.

Double Drop vs Topmount

Topmount: more direct control and grip (popular for downhill/freeride).
Double drop: more comfort and stability, less “raw” road feel.

If your goal is pushing, commuting, distance, relaxed carving, learning slides, a double drop is often the easiest win.

What Double Drop Longboards Are Best For

Double drops are the “comfortable shoes” of longboarding. Not always the flashiest, but they get you far with fewer complaints from your knees.

1) Pushing & commuting

This is the classic double drop use case:

Push is easier
Footbrake is easier
You feel stable even when tired or distracted

2) Long-distance pushing (LDP)

Double drops are common in LDP because:

Low platform = efficient stride
Stable platform = less micro-correction
Big wheels often fit nicely = smoother roll

(If you get deep into LDP, you’ll hear about bracket setups too—but double drop is a fantastic starting point.)

3) Cruising and carving

They carve smoothly and feel planted. Great for:

paths, promenades, bike lanes
chill sessions with friends
“I want to ride, not fight my board” days

4) Freeride / learning to slide

A low platform helps many beginners feel safer initiating slides or speed checks.
Not magic, but confidence is half the battle.

5) Downhill (with conditions)

Yes, some people ride double drops downhill because they’re stable.
But:

less ground clearance
can scrape on rough roads or tight turns
setup matters a lot more

If your main thing is serious downhill, a topmount often makes life easier. If downhill is “occasionally, controlled,” double drop can work.

Key Design Features You Should Understand

Drop depth (how low it is)

More drop = easier pushing
More drop = more chance of scraping

If you ride rough pavement, speed bumps, or lots of sidewalk transitions, ultra-low can get annoying fast.

Wheelbase (how stable it feels)

Wheelbase is the distance between the trucks (not the deck length). Generally:

Longer wheelbase: more stable, better for speed and distance
Shorter wheelbase: more nimble, quicker turns

Concave (how “locked in” your feet feel)

Mellow concave: comfy for long rides, easier on feet
Deep concave: more control for sliding and faster riding

Flex vs stiffness

More flex: comfy and absorbs rough roads, but can feel “wobbly” at speed
More stiff: more control, better for speed and slides, but harsher ride

A lot of beginners accidentally buy too flexy, then blame the board when it feels unstable.

Cutouts / wheel wells (wheelbite prevention)

Double drops often run bigger wheels. Great… until you get wheelbite.
Deck design + truck choice + wheel size all need to match.

Pros and Cons of a Double Drop Longboard

Pros

Super easy to push
Very stable feel
Comfortable for cruising and distance
Beginner-friendly
Often symmetrical (you can ride either direction)

Cons

Less ground clearance (scrapes happen)
Can feel less lively than a topmount
Not ideal for tricks/dancing
Setup mistakes (wheels/trucks/bushings) show up fast

Who should avoid a double drop?

You mainly want dancing/freestyle tricks
Your routes are curbs, rough roads, lots of bumps
You want a super “snappy” board feel above comfort

How to Choose the Right Double Drop (Fast Decision Guide)

Step 1: Pick your main goal

Commuting / everyday: comfort + predictable turning
LDP: efficiency + big wheels + stability
Freeride/slides: control + concave + slide-friendly wheels

Step 2: Choose a deck size that fits your stance

Wider decks feel more planted
Narrow decks can feel quicker
Your shoe size and stance width matter more than you think

Step 3: Match wheelbase to your vibe

If you want stable and relaxed: longer wheelbase
If you want nimble and turny: shorter wheelbase

Step 4: Choose flex based on weight + terrain

Rough ground and lighter riders can enjoy some flex
Heavier riders or higher speed benefit from stiffer decks

Step 5: Check clearance for wheels

If you want big wheels (good for cruising/LDP), make sure the deck design supports them without wheelbite—or plan your setup around it.

Double Drop Setup Guide: 3 Proven Builds

These are “directional” setups—templates you can tweak.

Setup A: Best for commuting & everyday pushing

Goal: smooth, stable, low-effort riding.

Trucks: stable turning style (commuter-friendly)
Wheels: medium-to-large, comfy urethane for rougher pavement
Bushings: medium feel, not too loose, not overtight

Why it works: easy push + confident turning + less fatigue.

Setup B: Best for long-distance pushing (LDP)

Goal: efficiency and comfort over long rides.

Wheels: larger diameter for speed retention and rolling over cracks
Bearings: decent quality (smooth roll matters on distance)
Deck: stable wheelbase and comfortable concave
Bushings: tuned for stability (distance wobble is a mood-killer)

Why it works: once you’re rolling, you stay rolling.

Setup C: Best for freeride / learning slides

Goal: predictable control and safe speed checks.

Deck: more supportive concave helps foot placement
Wheels: slide-friendly shape (easier breakaway and control)
Trucks: stable and consistent turning
Bushings: slightly firmer for control

Why it works: you’re not wrestling the board while learning technique.

Quick tuning basics (so you don’t ruin a good setup)

Too loose: twitchy and unstable at speed
Too tight: turns like a shopping cart with a bad wheel
Start moderate, then adjust in small steps.

Tips for Beginners (Double Drop Edition)

1) Start with the basics: stance and calm pushing

Front foot planted, back foot pushes smoothly
Keep your weight centered, not leaning over the edge
Look where you want to go (your body follows your eyes)

2) Learn footbraking early

Footbraking is the “real superpower.”
Practice it on flat ground until it feels normal.

3) Avoid speed wobbles the smart way

Don’t lock your knees
Keep weight slightly forward (not leaning back)
Don’t assume tighter trucks = safer
(sometimes tighter just makes the board unpredictable)

4) Pick practice terrain that doesn’t hate you

Smooth, flat paths
Empty parking lots
Mild slopes only after you can stop reliably

5) Wear the gear that saves you from dumb injuries

At minimum: helmet.
If you’re learning slides: gloves are a very good idea.

Common Mistakes (And How to Fix Them)

Mistake 1: Going “maximum low” and scraping everywhere

Fix: choose a reasonable drop depth and avoid setups that make the board a pavement magnet.

Mistake 2: Wheelbite because wheels/trucks/deck don’t match

Fix: adjust wheel size, bushing stiffness, truck setup, or choose a deck with better clearance.

Mistake 3: Buying soft flex because it “sounds comfortable”

Fix: comfort is good, but too much flex can feel unstable—especially at speed or for heavier riders.

Mistake 4: Using the wrong wheels for your goal

Cruising/LDP wheels are built to roll fast and smooth
Slide wheels are built to break traction predictably
Fix: pick wheels for what you actually do, not what looks cool.

Mistake 5: Thinking a double drop makes you invincible

It helps stability, yes.
But technique still matters—especially stopping and speed control.

Recommended Gear (Only What Actually Fits This Topic)

Essentials

Helmet
Skate tool
Spare hardware (cheap, saves sessions)
Lights if you commute at night (getting seen is underrated)

Nice upgrades that genuinely improve the ride

Quality bushings (often the best “feel” upgrade)
Better bearings (especially for LDP/commuting)
Comfortable grip (your feet will notice on longer rides)

If you’re learning slides

Slide gloves (your palms will thank you immediately)

Maintenance: Keep It Smooth and Safe

60-second pre-ride check

Are the trucks tight and consistent?
Any rattling hardware?
Wheels spinning freely?
Any cracks or delamination?

Wheel rotation

Rotate wheels if one side is wearing faster (common if you carve a lot). It keeps the ride smoother and extends wheel life.

Bushings

If the board feels sloppy or weirdly twitchy after months of riding, bushings might be cooked. Replacing them can make the board feel brand new.

FAQ: Longboard Double-drop / Double Drop

Are double drop longboards good for beginners?

Yes—low, stable, easy pushing. One of the most beginner-friendly deck types.

What’s the difference between a double drop and a drop-through?

A drop-through mounts trucks through the deck. A double drop also has a dropped standing platform, making it even lower.

Are double drops good for downhill?

They can be, but clearance and setup matter. For dedicated downhill, many riders prefer topmount for grip and control.

What wheel size is best for a double drop?

Depends on your goal: bigger wheels for cruising/LDP, slide-friendly wheels for freeride. Clearance is the key constraint.

Do double drop decks get wheelbite more easily?

Not inherently—but bigger wheels plus soft setups can cause it. Matching components prevents most issues.

Can you learn to slide on a double drop?

Yes, and many people do. The low platform can feel less intimidating, but technique and safety gear still matter.

What does “double-drop” mean?

It’s usually just a typo for double drop. Same topic, same deck style.

Mini Glossary (Quick and Useful)

Drop-through: trucks mount through cutouts in the deck
Drop deck / drop-down: standing platform is lower than the mounts
Topmount: trucks mount under the deck, platform sits higher
Wheelbase: distance between trucks (big influence on stability)
Concave: curve across the deck that helps foot lock/control
Rocker: lengthwise curve that can increase comfort and “in” feel
Wheelbite: wheel contacts the deck during turning (bad)
Bushings: urethane cushions in the trucks that control turn feel

Bottom Line

A Longboard Double-drop (double drop) is one of the best deck styles if you want:

easy pushing
stability
comfort for commuting or long rides
a forgiving platform while you learn

Just don’t chase “lowest possible” without thinking about clearance, and don’t ignore setup basics. A good double drop setup feels like cheating—in the nicest way.

If you want, tell me your height/weight, shoe size, and what you’ll ride most (commute, distance, slides, hills), and I’ll recommend a setup direction that actually fits you.